Questions & discussions of garage door operator problems and solutions.

Latest topics

» Seal your garage door
Today at 3:00 am by brooklynnygarage

» Pole Barn Door Opener
Sat Aug 19, 2017 12:13 pm by OldBlue

» need to get garage door open
Sat Aug 19, 2017 7:11 am by benchbella

» advise on garage repair in phoenix az
Fri Aug 18, 2017 11:02 am by sandykiwi66

» Garage door not opening.
Fri Aug 18, 2017 11:00 am by sandykiwi66

» What is the best garage door for all homes?
Fri Aug 18, 2017 10:57 am by sandykiwi66

» Welcome To The Forums
Mon Aug 14, 2017 6:55 am by queensgarage

» What goes into the cost of a commercial garage door?
Mon Aug 14, 2017 6:50 am by queensgarage

» What type of spring is better...extension or torsion?
Mon Aug 14, 2017 5:04 am by njoverheadgaragedoors

Buy Marantec Remotes

Buy Raynor Remotes

Buy Raynor Remotes


    Raynor 170-7 works once after unplugged/reset


    Hal H

    Posts : 2
    Join date : 2013-04-03

    Raynor 170-7 works once after unplugged/reset

    Post  Hal H on Thu Apr 04, 2013 1:21 am

    I have a Raynor 170-7 that will completely open or close from either the wall button or transmitter after the power head has been unplugged and plugged back in. It may do this 2 to 4 times, once it has been reset, but that is about the maximum. Then it stops working. It is about the same whether the door is disconnected with the rope or with the door attached to the opener.

    When it stops working, the red LED sensor light always goes off and the green one stays on. I took the sensors off and dropped them off at my local door company. I am not sure that they could test them, although when I came back, the office person said the service person had checked them and they were bad. However, the new sensors, work the same as the old sensors. When I measure voltage at the head and at the transmitter connector where the wiring connects to the receiver (red LED sensor) the voltage is the same. Also, if the door is open and you close the door, the door WILL NOT STOP closing if something is placed in the infrared beam. If the door is open and you put your hand in the beam, the red LED will not go off.

    I put a new circuit/microprocessor control board on it, and it still works the same.

    If the opener is moved up and down 2 or 3 feet in the middle of the trolley without getting to the limit switches, the opener will still stop after 1 to maybe 6 times. It seems to maybe only work 1 to 4 times if the garage door is connected, but it may work the same number of times. It tends to stop working when you push the transmitter or button to stop the opener. However, if it closed and you open the door, and you do not push a button to stop the door, the red LED may turn off when the door is about half way up. The door keeps going up even though the red LED light goes off, I guess obviously.

    I do have different voltages at the two limit switches. About 5.6 AC volts at the close limit switch, and about 10.1 AC volts at the open limit switch. Like I said above though, the opener stops working even if the opener never gets close to the limit switches.

    I have tried wiggling wires, after I have reset the opener, but the red LED always stays lit. Also, the opener ALWAYS works after it has been unplugged and plugged back in. It always works with the remote or the wall push button.

    I tried tightening all the wire nuts and wiggling the solderless terminal connections. The capacitor seems to look and smell fine. I tried to make sure the connections to the capacitor were fine.

    I can turn the belt pulley easily without the door attached. I looked at the sensitivity switches when the door goes up and down, but they don't really have to do anything, especially without the door attached.

    I know this is really simple. The opener had been working perfectly until about one week ago.

    Thanks for any advice.

    Hal H

    Posts : 2
    Join date : 2013-04-03

    Problem Solved

    Post  Hal H on Wed Apr 10, 2013 12:43 pm

    I had the door company come out. They put on a third logic board, and looked the logic board they had taken out over and checked wiring and redid connections and it still didn't work. Then they put on another set of sensors, and it worked. The new sensors they had given me previously were bad. They said they didn't think I would even be charged for the visit.

    This would have been extremely difficult for me to fix. Especially if I had gotten another set or two of bad sensors. The door company could just keep putting in logic boards and sensors until they finally could get something that worked, and if that didn't fix it, then they could take a closer look at the wiring. Much easier.

      Current date/time is Mon Aug 21, 2017 3:32 am