Hello first post, I have a Raynor 270-7 manufactured 11/94 (with eye sensors) installed 8/95, has worked flawlessly for 21.5 years. Three week ago the door went up and I heard a bang (looks like carriage hit a hard stop) and the motor continued to run. I immediately pulled the plug and disconnected the door. Tinkered with it for a few days, each time I plugged in the opener it kept trying to open the door (pushing buttons does nothing). I spun the drive shaft pulley (flywheel) by hand to move the trolley to the door close position, plugged in the opener, same thing door opens and goes past the open limit switch before hitting a hard stop. I check continuity between the open limit switch and the appropriate control board pin and continuity was there, both switches function properly. Removed both the wall switch and receiver from the opener as a check, no change, opener wants to open the door. Both eye sensors are green, when I block the beam one turns red and I hear a relay in the opener (click click) just like always. At this point I'm 98% certain something in the control board is the problem. Checking the internet, Raynor no longer supports control board 6080275. So I have a mechanically good opener with a bad board. After many days of searching ebay, SearchTempest, and calling Raynor dealers, I found a used control board and it solved the problem except for a new loud bang bang bang noise coming from the carriage. Anyway days later I'm troubleshooting the opener with the cover off and the capacitor decides to blow, throwing black gunk all over the ceiling and inside of opener. So for those of you out there that like to fix things, keep this in mind, wear your safety glasses! Well the capacitor is replaced and opener running again except for the bang bang bang. Looking at the gearing I just noticed a missing tooth from the small 6-tooth drive gear which is part of the Shaft, Sprocket, Reversing Lever Assembly P/N 4050049. I assume this occurred during the initial "crash". Does anyone know how this gear is attached and if it can be replaced? Or am I stuck trying to find a complete assembly (probably another Raynor part that is no longer supported)? I know, long post, but it may help others troubleshoot one of these vintage machines.