Raynor Model 130-7. This was installed new in our home in 1990. (So 21 years isn't too bad, but why spend $200 for a new opener if this one can be fixed?) The opener, when it works, does fine. However it sometimes won't respond to open/close signals. This can be from the hard-wired button on the wall, the original Raynor remote (with good battery), or either of two vehicles with the code set to match.
Here is a typical scenario: In the morning as I leave for work, I push the hard-wired wall button as I enter the garage and the door goes up. I get into my car, back out of the garage, and press the Raynor remote button in my car. Nothing happens -- the door stays up. In order to get the door to close, I have walk back into the garage, get a stepstool, unplug the 120v cord, plug it in, put away the stepstool, and walk to my car. Now I can push the remote button and the door will close.
As I said, there are four different devices for operating the door opener and it happens with all of them. So it seems to be something in the electronics of the opener. A bad capacitor, or a corroded connection? Any suggestions on where to start?
Thanks,
Craig
Here is a typical scenario: In the morning as I leave for work, I push the hard-wired wall button as I enter the garage and the door goes up. I get into my car, back out of the garage, and press the Raynor remote button in my car. Nothing happens -- the door stays up. In order to get the door to close, I have walk back into the garage, get a stepstool, unplug the 120v cord, plug it in, put away the stepstool, and walk to my car. Now I can push the remote button and the door will close.
As I said, there are four different devices for operating the door opener and it happens with all of them. So it seems to be something in the electronics of the opener. A bad capacitor, or a corroded connection? Any suggestions on where to start?
Thanks,
Craig
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