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    Space for Opener

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    jetlag1946

    Posts : 5
    Join date : 2017-05-09

    Space for Opener

    Post  jetlag1946 on Wed Mar 21, 2018 10:48 pm

    Is 14 inches enough for garage door opener ? I know they say 15 " but I had made a 3/8 mistake on my walls and also forgot I had to use 5/8 fire rated dry wall in ceiling . I had wanted to have a 9 ft high door . I will have to lose an inch on the door or the opener space one . I have not ordered the door or installed the header yet . I heard they make a low profile opener , is that a lot more expensive . I had rather stay with the standard if possible . Also if I have to go with the 15 " header couldn't I still use the 9 ft door ? It seems to me the header would just be down 1" below the top of the door and the opening would be 8'-11" high .
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    GDZone
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    Re: Space for Opener

    Post  GDZone on Thu Mar 22, 2018 1:12 am

    I would recommend an opener like the Liftmaster 8500 model. It mounts to the side of the door at the end of the torsion bar (like a commercial jackshaft type opener). It only requires 3" of headroom so you won't have to worry about headroom.


    Liftmaster 8500W Elite Series

    If you go with an 8'11" header & a 9' door that doesn't change the headroom. The headroom is going to be determined by measuring from the top of the door to the lowest point of the ceiling (joist, drywall, lights, etc.). The concern with headroom is the high arc of the door when it's opening & the space it needs to clear the high arc. By using a side mount opener like the 8500 you'll pick up a couple of inches. If the door has 15" radius track then you would need about 13-3/4" for trajectory of the door (every manufacturer is a little different so check with your door manufacturer or dealer). By cutting 2" off the verticals & moving the top fixtures down you could gain another 1-3/8" if you needed to. A good installation company would know about all of the little tricks to gain an extra inch if you need it. Any more than that and you'd have to go with low headroom fixtures but it sounds like you would be fine without them.


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    jetlag1946

    Posts : 5
    Join date : 2017-05-09

    Re: Space for Opener

    Post  jetlag1946 on Thu Mar 22, 2018 10:38 am

    GDZone wrote:I would recommend an opener like the Liftmaster 8500 model. It mounts to the side of the door at the end of the torsion bar (like a commercial jackshaft type opener). It only requires 3" of headroom so you won't have to worry about headroom.
    Thanks for reply , my post is probably not worded well . I dont think I need the 15 " radius . According to the HD man that will order the door , the 15" is for the carriage doors , I guess because of the weight . Mine would have the 12 " radius rail but and that would also be the min head room but for and opener you need 3 more inch for 15 " headroom . I would only have 14" headroom unless I change something . The problem is I have to order the door in 3" increments so I cant order 1" shorter door I would have to drop to 8'-9" door .  Are you saying for an opener you have to have the 15" radius ? If that is the case then I will have to saw an inch off the bottom of the verticals for the 9 ft track . Im  glad you brought this up because I was going to order the the 12" radius for manual lift and have the option to add the opener later . So are you saying I cant do that with a standard opener because I would have to change the track to 15 inch radius to add the opener ?

    Liftmaster 8500W Elite Series

    If you go with an 8'11" header & a 9' door that doesn't change the headroom. The headroom is going to be determined by measuring from the top of the door to the lowest point of the ceiling (joist, drywall, lights, etc.). The concern with headroom is the high arc of the door when it's opening & the space it needs to clear the high arc. By using a side mount opener like the 8500 you'll pick up a couple of inches. If the door has 15" radius track then you would need about 13-3/4" for trajectory of the door (every manufacturer is a little different so check with your door manufacturer or dealer). By cutting 2" off the verticals & moving the top fixtures down you could gain another 1-3/8" if you needed to. A good installation company would know about all of the little tricks to gain an extra inch if you need it. Any more than that and you'd have to go with low headroom fixtures but it sounds like you would be fine without them.
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    GDZone
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    Re: Space for Opener

    Post  GDZone on Thu Mar 22, 2018 6:40 pm

    No you don't have to have 15" radius track. The radius of the track has nothing to due with the weight of the door. It has more to do with how the sections make the turn around the radius. Residential size doors (usually considered 8' high and under) normally have 12" radius track but can also use 15". Residential size doors have shorter section heights (like 18", 19" or 20") and travel around 12" radius track fine. When you get into doors over 8' high they are considered commercial size (even though many new residential garages are using the taller sizes) and 15" radius track is standard. Many of the taller doors use 21" and 24" height sections which travel around 15" better than 12" radius track.

    Long story short...you can use either radius. If it were me I'd use 15" radius track and the Liftmaster 8500 opener. If you want to go with a trolley operator then use the 12" radius though the sections may not travel around the radius as smoothly as the 15" (it depends on what section heights your door uses). I would recommend looking into a Marantec brand trolley operator. The rail can mount flush to the ceiling and will take less headroom than a traditional residential trolley (only requires 1-1/4").


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