What did I do wrong here... garage door opener install Pics and vid included.

I swapped my garage door opener with a newer model with WIFI

When I purchased my house it had an older chamberlain model I purchased a wifi model and installed it.

To keep it easy I only changed the track (carriage) and the opener along with keypad and inside button, I left the older sensors.


I noticed my door isn't snug at the top when it closes I dont' know what I did wrog or what I'm missing.  

I made a vid to show along with some pics.

Can anyone tell me what i did wrong or what I'm missing? I tried adjusting the track but it only made it worse. It's not closing as smooth

the pics and video of ti closing are located here

https://houseonline.duckdns.org/index.php/s/6EdewWeLztGTqYz

I'll post the pics on here as well

Any advice would be appreciated.

Sorry pics and vid are too large to attached see link please.

Your top panel is breaking due to the short operator bracket and no strut on the panel. I would recommend replacing the panel if the door isn't too old... labels should be on the end of the panel(s). Also add a strut the width of the door and an operator bracket that spans the height of the panel. i.e. 18", 21" or 24"

Let me give you some valuable information that WILL fix your problem.

First of all, where your door arm, connects to the garage door. That should be IN-LINE with your top rollers. So measure from the top of your panel, to either of the top rollers(wheels), & that measurement is where your door arm should be connected to the top panel. This will ensure proper leverage when the opener is lifting your door.

Second, your door is not closing all the way to the cement & also leaving a gap at the top, visible from the outside. This is because your door arm is at an improper angle & your opener trolley is traveling too far towards the header. When your opener is in it’s full close position, that door arm of yours, leading up to the trolley, should be angled slightly towards your opener power head. In other words, when the door is closed, that arm should NOT be perfectly vertical(up & down), as well, it should not be tilted towards your header. Instead, that door arm should be slightly tilted back, towards the opener(when in it’s closed position)
Once that door arm hits a 90 degree angle, & the trolley is still traveling towards the header, the door arm goes limp & doesn’t actually hold your door to the ground.

Third, if your springs are properly counterbalancing your door. As well as following the previous two corrections, your opener will open that door smoothly, & properly. WITHOUT the need for a strut. Struts are useful, when used accordingly. Putting a strut on & new panel without following the previous two corrections will wear the nylon gears out in your power head, & eventually start damaging your top panel again(months/years down the line)

Ask if you don’t quite follow, & make a video of your trolley & door arm when moving into its full close position. Along with a picture of your new door arm placement.

delweis wrote:Your top panel is breaking due to the short operator bracket and no strut on the panel. I would recommend replacing the panel if the door isn't too old... labels should be on the end of the panel(s). Also add a strut the width of the door and an operator bracket that spans the height of the panel. i.e. 18", 21" or 24"

I think you are right it's the operator bracket and the strut. When the door is closed and I'm on the inside I can push the top of the garage out and there is enough play that it will then go into the position that I want, but when I let go it goes back,  The trolley travel is at its end but I think the bracket and the struct will get rid of that play. 

When I moved into the house the system was already setup, but I'm the one who swapped out the opener with the new model, then I noticed this.  It may have been like this all along and I only noticed this when I installed it.

Appreciate the advice will report after I get the job done.

find me wrote:Let me give you some valuable information that WILL fix your problem.

First of all, where your door arm, connects to the garage door. That should be IN-LINE with your top rollers. So measure from the top of your panel, to either of the top rollers(wheels), & that measurement is where your door arm should be connected to the top panel. This will ensure proper leverage when the opener is lifting your door.

Second, your door is not closing all the way to the cement & also leaving a gap at the top, visible from the outside. This is because your door arm is at an improper angle & your opener trolley is traveling too far towards the header. When your opener is in it’s full close position, that door arm of yours, leading up to the trolley, should be angled slightly towards your opener power head. In other words, when the door is closed, that arm should NOT be perfectly vertical(up & down), as well, it should not be tilted towards your header. Instead, that door arm should be slightly tilted back, towards the opener(when in it’s closed position)
Once that door arm hits a 90 degree angle, & the trolley is still traveling towards the header, the door arm goes limp & doesn’t actually hold your door to the ground.

Third, if your springs are properly counterbalancing your door. As well as following the previous two corrections, your opener will open that door smoothly, & properly. WITHOUT the need for a strut.  Struts are useful, when used accordingly. Putting a strut on & new panel without following the previous two corrections will wear the nylon gears out in your power head, & eventually start damaging your top panel again(months/years down the line)

Ask if you don’t quite follow, & make a video of your trolley & door arm when moving into its full close position. Along with a picture of your new door arm placement.

Thanks for the help and advice, I'll verify the line-up of the top rollers 1st.

The garage makes it all the way down to the pavement, but the trolley hits the stopper, and therefore won't go far enough to seal the top.  I think the missing Strut is needed as the spacer.

I'm going to try a few things this weekend and I'll post back with my findings.