Raynor 170-7 works from wall switch, eyes clear with no blinking red lite and when reset it works once from transmitter, never from remote.

Hi there, I am looking for troubleshoooting help or clues as to why my Raynor 170-7 will OPEN only once using transmitter button after reset and never from the remote. Will not close using transmitter button. It works fine using wall button up and down.

I have tried troubleshooting tips, cleared the eyes and reset by unplugging the main unit. When replugged, there is a red dot in the white bar on the transmitter that attaches to the opener tabs 1, 2 and 3. When the red dot is on, I can push the white transmitter bar and the door will close. Hit it again and it opens. After it closes again, it will not reopen and the red dot is not lit. The remote does nothing at all. The remote red lite is shown when the remote button is pushed that confirms the battery is working I suppose. In taking the battery cover off I may have changed the dip switches but have recycled the entire unit several times since if that is the means to reset the remote to transmitter. I have cleaned the door safety eyes and confirmed the wires are connected. I have not seen any sign they are working and their red light does not blink. When I began to "fix" the "close using the remote" problem, the remote would open the door but not close it. Now the remote does nothing.

I am glad to provide volt/ohm meter readings given various situations, let me know what tests to perform. I think I am close but believe I am missing some critical troubleshooting understandings. I tried to shortcircuit the eyes and use the transmitter white bar but that did not work but may be its design. Would it help to know if each eye has an open or closed circuit? Is there any test I can perform using the remote and transmitter without it being attached to the opener?

Any and all suggestions will be appreciated. Let me know what tests to perform. thanks, tom

Well, you definitely supplied enough info. From what I can gather...you can open and close the door from the wall button without any problems but the remote only works a few times and then stops working. It sounds like the radio receiver may be going bad. I'm guessing your operator is 14 or 15 years old. I'm also going to guess that you have a Model #500RGD Receiver with #61RGD Remotes.

If it were me I would start by replacing the radio receiver. The #635LM Plug-in Receiverwould be the least expensive way to go. Install the new receiver, program your existing remote to it and see if that solves the problem. If that doesn't solve the problem there's a possibility that there's a problem with the logic board and it needs replaced. But I wouldn't replace the board until you find out if the radio receiver is the culprit or not.

If you do decide to replace the receiver confirm that your existing remote is a #61RGD. If it is then the #635LM will work. If it's another model then you may need a different receiver.

Hope this helps.

the receiver is the model you suspected and its flaky performance is suspect. I will replace it and report results. Thanks, Tom

You were correct, the transmitter replacement allowed the remote to control the door. Now however the door must need adjustment because when I unplug the whole opener and replug to use the wall switch to open then reclose the door, it works fine. The red dot on the transmitter stays lit unlike before. I programmed the remote so it talks to the transmitter and can cause the door to go up when closed and go down when open. This is progress!

Problem now is when I close the door with the remote (or push white transmitter bar) it closes to within about 1/2 inch from the floor and reopens. Then the red lite on transmitter goes out, a safety feature I suspect. When I use the wall switch to cycle the door to close, the red light is on again and the remote will open the door. Then I can use the remote to close the door but again it does not completely close and reopens turning off the red transmitter light. I tried adjusting the stovebolt "close adjustment setting" to "increase" about two turns with same results. Then tried to relax it 4 turns with same results. Then the motor overheat protector proved its worth and all stopped. After it cooled, I tried cleaning the eyes etc with same results. Plese let me know how to proceed. If I were not so close, I would call for a service run but hate to "give up" at this point. I did release the door to manually see if there were any binding and found it opens and closes just fine, all the way to the ground with very little effort. Something is triggering it to reopen when it closes within 1/2 inch of the floor. I have a door in my home with switches on the track to set the open/close positions but find nothing like this on the RayNor opener. By the way, it is a grey/dk blue color and says RayNor 1/3 hp on the side. I looked inside when the motor got hot after about 12 cycles in a row and it looks new in there, no mice or birds! After a short cooling, it worked again with same closing problem when the remote is used. Next steps please and thanks!

All of the following is if you are facing the back of the operator:

You mentioned adjusting "stovebolt close adjustment setting". I'm assuming you are referring to the Force Sensitivity Adjustment screws located at the rear of the upper chassis. The Close Sensitivity Screw is located on the right side. Turning the screw clockwise will allow more force to be applied to the door before it reverses or stops. Make 1/2 turn adjustments to the screw and then test the opener. Applying too much force can be dangerous and possibly damage the door or operator.

The travel limits are inside the operator. If you remove the opener cover you will see the limit switch assembly. You should see a retaining rod and two white limit nuts. The upper nut is the Open Limit Nut and the lower nut is the Close Limit Nut. To increase the door travel - pull the retaining rod away from the limit nuts and turn the Close Limit Nut on the threaded shaft upward. One turn of the nut is approx. 3" of door travel. Put the retaining rod back in place. BEFORE YOU TEST THE OPENER pull the emergency release - this way if you made an over adjustment it wont damage the door or opener.

Hope this helps.

Yes, I will do "The Close Sensitivity Screw is located on the right side. Turning the screw clockwise will allow more force to be applied to the door before it reverses or stops."

Just to be sure, I should increase force to negate the door reopening after it closes to that 1/2" daylight under door point. I turned the right screw two turns clockwise earlier and it just reopens when it closes to that almost closed point as if it had hit some obstruction. I can close it completely manually and there is no obstruction. I will try adjustments you say tomorrow and report results. Once I am able to get it to close and stay closed, I can try the limit adjustment. Would it be beneficial to test the eyes by removing them and taping them together looking at one another? Can I bypass the eyes to test their functionality? thanks again, tom

You can't bypass the safety sensors. It really doesn't sound like that's the problem unless you have leaves or a rope hanging from the bottom of the door that may be tripping the sensors when the door is almost closed.

I tried adjustments with no success and then looked more closely at the eyes "line of sight" as the door closed. It appeared the door inner handle was very close to where the eyes see each other and that was where the door reversed itself. I removed the handle and it closed just fine. It may have never worked, the opener was in the house with I purchased it 15 years ago and the tenant just used it for storage so used the white wall button. I see the eyes are as far into the inside of the adjustment as they can go so I mounted the handle with the one bolt and out of the eye sight. That "reversing" is OK now. It did stop midway down when using the remote a few times and I adjusted the close stove bolt and that seems ok now.

The problem remains that the transmitter red light goes off after using the remote to open the door. If I use the wall button (or unplug the entire opener) and use the wall button to close the door and then reoopen it with the wall button, the red light on the transmitter stays on. Then the remote works to open the door but when it opens and as it stops at full open, the red light goes out. Then the remote (or transmitter white bar) will not open the door. If the door is closed with the wall button the red light is on again and if opened with the wall button the red light is on and the remote will close the door. So, I think the remaing issue is just that the transmitter red light goes out. Please help me understand what I can do about this; Is the open limit in need of adjustment? Thanks for your support, I believe I am very close now to success!

My guess is that there is something wrong with the logic board. Check the board for any type of burn marks on the circuits. If there is then the board should be replaced.

I found no marks on the board, looks clean as a whistle. I did notice that neither indicator light are on the eyes indicate they have power. Also, please provide a link to a picture to see that I have wires to the correct 1 - 6 posts. I realize the new transmitter goes to posts 1, 2 and 3 but not sure about wires to the eyes. One eye has three wires and the other has two. What I need is a 170-7 manual but have not found one on the internet. The Raynor site image just comes up blank.

Connect both Black wires to Terminal #1, both Red wires to Terminal #5 and the single White wire to Terminal #6.

Seems I had a combination of issues and thanks to you, I have been able to resolve them all. It works fine in my garage on top of the old jeep, carriage up and carriage down, lights on and lights blink on eyes. I can use either the remote or short the 1 & 2 to simulate the wall switch. If I move the eyes and the red light goes out, it does not obey the remote down command as it was doing before when installed. I found no problem with the wires so must have been an alignment issue. I didn't know to look for the red light on the one eye but do now. Now I need to take it back to the rental house and reinstall. Should be easily done. Thanks again, I really appreciate your support.

Help please,

When i Push button, only Sears garage door moves about One Foot and stops.

Please reply me as soon as possible.




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